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Luxury Goods Biz Faces Uncertain Market
Business Headlines
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In The NewsAt least, that's the impression being given so far in 2001 by earnings news from luxury goods companies. economy uncertain, the bottomline numbers are, for the most part, not sparkling.
Last month, for instance, Tiffany Co., the jeweler, projected firstquarter earnings would be no better than last year's, and tied potential sales growth in 2001 to a rebound in consumer confidence.
But that's no sure thing: An ABCNEWS/Money poll released Wednesday shows consumers rating the buying climate as the worst in four years.
And although the floor of the famous Tiffany's shop on Fifth Avenue in Manhattan continues to bustle with shoppers, actual sales in the company's flagship store were down 5 percent in the fourth quarter of 2000, a sign that people are windowshopping rather than buying.
That could pose a challenge to luxury goods executives accustomed to living the good life, businesswise: running companies with healthy profit margins and plenty of respect on Wall Street.
Indeed, the economic slowdown represents a paradox of sorts for companies that have profited by reaching out to wider groups of consumers in the 1990s. But now, the industry's biggest names may have to tighten their fine leather belts or, at a minimum, find the right balance between broadening business and ensuring that their most prominent brands remain healthy.
Gucci, for instance, restored cachet to its name and climbed out of a late1980s slump partly by trimming its onceubiquitous licensing agreements the brand had been appearing on key chains and concentrating instead on its bestknown products: readytowear fashions, shoes, bags and other accessories.
"For a company such as Gucci, which is really fashionoriented, what's important there is that they maintain the integrity of the brand," says Lakner. Placing a prominent label on a diversity of products, she claims," diffuses the brand, and cheapens the brand."
But with Gucci stating in March that sales are growing faster so far this year than they did in 2000, the company is still wheeling and dealing. This week, Gucci announced it will give financial backing to a new label run by design star Stella McCartney yes, Paul's daughter as it continues to build its roster of prominent brand names.
In so doing, Gucci is attempting to keep pace with LVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton,[url=http://www.holisteroutlet.cc]hollister outlet[/url], the world's biggest luxury goods company, which has snapped up wellknown brand names in the last few years like a Madison Avenue shopper with no credit limit. Earlier this month, LVMH formally announced the purchase of noted fashion house Donna Karan International Inc., for $243 million.
It's just the latest in a string of acquisitions that has seen LVMH take control of the Phillips auction house, Ebel and TAG Heuer watches, Dom Perignon champagne, and a catwalk full of clothing lines: Christian Dior, Christian LaCroix, Emilio Pucci, Fendi, Givenchy and Marc Jacobs.

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