 Wysłany: 16 Temat postu: Humble old tweed is now haughty |
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| Humble old tweed is now haughty
But soon you will be able to express your inner self, small and superficial though it may be, by showing you know what hot. Tweed coats, tweed suits, tweed pencil skirts, even tweed knickers. What is striking, in fact, about the fall collections is how even the most classic tweed variations notably Ralph Lauren rustic herringbone blazers and pencil suits do not sink into nostalgia. Why look back with envy? Lauren jackets are cut close to the body; curves matter. And with the higher armholes, you will look as lean and sharp as a glamorous letter opener. In the minimalist 1990s, tweeds were conspicuously absent from fashion; the texture,[url=http://www.holisteroutlet.cc]hollister pas cher[/url], the jaunty flash of color and Lurex sparkle somehow did not jibe with heroin chic and equally anemiclooking slip dresses. And there weren the kind of technical innovations with tweed that Karl Lagerfeld displayed two years ago at Chanel with haute couture suits that appeared to be disintegrating at the hems (and were, in reality, an expensive Lesage embroidery trick). Maybe that was the beginning. Maybe Lagerfeld attempt to create the illusion of organic synthesis with tweed led to a reappraisal and ultimately a fashion consensus. Christian Lacroix herringbone tweed prints at Pucci, Junya Watanabe puffy ponchos, and Oscar de la Renta haute black and white shift with feathery fringe just about everybody seemed in cahoots. And at all price ranges. With labels like Jill Stuart and Vince offering greatfitting pencil skirts and jackets (and Ann Taylor making an aggressive pitch for tweed in its new advertisements), there is no reason to spend a bundle to get the look. And, of course, the fabric lends itself to this season more dressedup looks and, at the other extreme, those mannish waistcoats, wideleg trousers and schoolboy scarves. But the real factor is that postmodern designers like Miuccia Prada and Marc Jacobs are constantly blending styles and periods and textures like fitch fur and tartan or patches of beadwork on masculinelooking houndstooth. When you take anything out of its traditional context, subvert it a little, you start to see it differently. Prada showed some of her chastelooking coats with bare legs and velvet slides, as if the potential customer for this outfit never planned to meet a puddle. But the idea is just another expression of casual dressing. One way to wear Jacobs severe gray tweed coat for Louis Vuitton, with its Imperiallooking brocade hem, is with Prada slim cropped pants, Dries van Noten shirred black organza top and a pair of teal suede stilettos. Libertine tweeds look as if they have been endlessly washed. You have to break out of form with tweed, as Dolce Gabbana did with a terrific cocktail dress with a black speckled tweed bodice and a slim lace skirt. (Or Lauren did when he used turquoise jewelry.) Some of the best tweed looks happened to be for evening not a ball gown, perhaps. But a sturdy tweed coat with a skimmy organza shift or a creamy tulle skirt (with a jolt of pink on the legs) certainly isn mommy wear. |
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